66 thunderbird wiring diagram1/21/2024 ![]() Later, several members cornered me and asked how I had fixed it. ![]() He had a business of selling TBird parts and angrilly told us IF YOU OPEN THEM UP THEY'RE JUNK!!! Many years ago I had a run-in with the "President" of a local Tbird club when he heard me telling another member how I had opened up the brake light relay and put new guts in it from Radio Shack. Yeah, most are common Terry and I suspect even the off-shore new ones are probably going to last longer. I defer to you on it being unique, but I think most of the other ones are a pretty standard configuration. The interior lights are one of the few areas that I haven't had to redo, so I have not played with that specific one. I replaced it with a brand name one and the problem went away. I have put them in many of the circuits of the car (windows, dash lights, headlights, etc) and have only found one that chattered and buzzed. Scott, you are correct about the quality of the relays. I wont even try to use my map light switch because that's when it dies! Just going to let sleeping dogs, er relays, lie. Now, I try to keep spares on the shelf because history repeats itself, ya know. I remember the days of restoring all my dead and missing relays and the long discussions over these issues. And I think this is typical of all 64-66, not just ours. The relay makes it possible to turn on the map lights by themselves without activating the dome lights.įord went to a lot of bother with that relay when a simple diode (used in slightly more modern cars) would have worked great and simplified wiring. (There's an odd schematic symbol inside of it that I can't find a meaning for but I suspect is a latch of sorts)įrom what I remember, if the map light relay fails, the rear dome lights will still work with the door switches but the map lights wont come on with them. The seat belt warning relay is an example of a very specialized relay. I need to try an actual Bosch relay to see if it will work (I suspect the problem was caused by the internal flyback diode). A cheapo Chinese junker I tried had issues with buzzing and a dithering effect (but worked). I'm a retired EE and have played with the map light relay. Terry, Some of the relays used in these cars are odd-balls. ![]() I have even heard of people putting the guts of the Bosch style inside the housing of the original so there is no way to tell. You can easily terminate the wires on the new relay connector to mate up with the original wire connectors if you don't want to hack your harness up. Any Bosch style relay (the black cubes) will work, most are 40/30 amps and only cost a few bucks. This relay is up under the dash near the steering column and will never be seen by anyone except the mice that make a nest there during the winter. All that matters is enough current to fire the coil and pull the arm down and contacts on the arm are robust enough to take the load. Probably be better to just run the wire separate and leave the original one in the loom.Looking at the terrible condition of Steve's relay in the photo of his old one, I should point out that all relays are basically the same. Not to mention removing it from the junction block at the firewall. I was just wondering if anybody has had to replace it, as you mentioned I think it would be a pain to try and remove from the harness. It to has a pink wire and joins at the firewall. I have gone over it using Autocad and made it more easier to read. This diagram is similar to a 64 schematic. Each one has the specific information for the chassis, instrumentation and turn signals of your car, as well as additional material. Most of the diagrams that I have seen are that of a 62 car which has a generator. Product Details This manual contains highly detailed, easy-to-follow diagrams for Thunderbird wiring. Here is a image of the wiring diagram that I use for my 63. I did find that the positive wire that goes to the coil has a half break in it where it attaches to the coil so I will have to repair that. I will do the tests again just to see if I get the same results, just to be sure. (In my first test I didn't place the jumper wire on the distributor, maybe this is where I went wrong). So yesterday I performed the tests as outlined in the 62 manual and all three readings that I got says that the resistor wire and everything else is good. I do know that if I place the leads across the battery terminals I can tell if the alternator is charging or not. Now I am by no means fluent in the use of multimeters. I thought it might have been the resister wire so I put my multimeter on the positive side of the coil to see if I was getting less then 12v. The points have only done 4,000 miles and they looked burned out. The reason I asked the question is on the weekend I changed the points, plugs and condenser over. No I haven't actually tried to trace the wire.
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